My Diary for 11-25th July – Skiathos

We always book flight only, usually with XL from Gatwick south terminal, leaving the car at Summer Special car park.  This year chose to fly with First Choice who go from north terminal and the cost was £45 cheaper !!  Same car park, different terminal.  Couldn’t figure out why but didn’t ask.  So at £66 for 14 nights we were thrilled.  Got up at 2am, tired but flew down the M25 and walked straight up to check-in an hour before the due time – no queue and straight through for breakfast.  First time we’ve had to remove our shoes at security, its getting tighter but not complaining.  First Choice are excellent.  Same price as XL and you get more baggage allowance, free meal on board and no stop-over on return. 

As we flew around Skiathos to land, my heart as always missed a beat.  Sounds crazy but I always feel really tearful when I come into land – it’s the most amazing view and I just think ‘this is home’. 

Straight through to Victoria Car rentals desk – fast, efficient as always and a brand new jeep handed over to us.  Drove round to the cemetery car park at the top of town and then spent over ½ hour trying to find Hotel Orsa.  We knew where it was located and thought we knew the town streets off the top of our head!!  Should have gone straight to the old harbour and up the steps – so close.  Fantastic little hotel perched on the cliffs.  Had booked independently and asked for a top room which we got.  Amazing views everyday.

Hotel Orsa is located in Skiathos Town, up the steps behind Jimmys Bar and the fish market, right on the edge of the cliff with amazing views over the Bourtzi. Most rooms have great views out to sea and it was lovely to watch the boats each morning and evening, the ferries arriving and the beautiful yachts that came into the harbour. And if you enjoy watching the planes coming in to land, you couldn’t wish for a better place to stay! The Orsa has pretty tiled roofs with overhanging eaves and small cast-iron balconies. Once inside, the accommodation is comfortable and clean and the staff are really friendly. But the location, only two minutes to the old harbour and town, and the quiet pedestrian road outside, makes it an ideal place to stay in town. I don’t think any UK travel companies go there so you have to book independently through www.heliotropio.gr and e-mail Dimitris Vassalios. You need to be sure to ask for a top floor or higher room to ensure the stunning views.

The rooms were air conditioned with a fridge, hairdryer and marble bathroom with shower. Breakfast was included and by Greek standards in smaller hotels was pretty good. Fresh juice and coffee, bread, jam, cheese, ham, cake and each morning a little extra – yogurt and honey, hard boiled eggs or fruit. There are steps leading down from the breakfast garden onto the rocks below where you could swim.

A lovely hotel, really conveniently located and highly recommended.

On our first evening walked 2 mins down to Jimmys Bar and had some cocktails (which we did every night!) before walking up to Taverna Selini above which had been recommended and we had never tried before.  It was nice with lovely views over the harbour.

Saturday, straight off to Kechria, our favourite beach and what changes have been made.  It’s like his own little haven, his back garden for everyone to share.  Hammocks in the trees, more sunbeds, ornamental designs from driftwood perched all over the rocks. A huge welcome and excellent food in the taverna.  Spent many days here. 

Went to Hellinikon that night which had been our favourite last year.  Don’t know what had happened but it was very disappointing - tough meat, cold plates and dishes arriving 20 mins apart.  Lots of people were complaining. Shame as I like the musicians there. It may have been a bad night but we didn’t return unfortunately.  After that The Admiral Benbow to see Mick and Elaine and we spent every single night in there, at some point, with so many old and new friends and had some great evenings.  Mick and Elaine really do run an excellent bar and are a warm and lovely couple.  Halfway through the evening Mick waved someone in from the street saying “this is Mo&balconies” (a member from another website).  Mick says to Sue “this is Diamond”!  Why did I choose that name!!  Anyway, whenever anyone asked, they all knew the name so it must work.  We found that the same people we met there last year were back again even though we were two weeks earlier.  So nice to meet old faces and catch up.

Sunday decided to find Krifi Amos (Hidden Beach) another recommendation from the Board.  Glad I wore my trainers for the walk down! and not flipflops.  Its not that steep but a bit slippery.  Nice bay but getting busy – hidden no longer !  Taverna run by lovely friendly lady.  That evening Asprolithos taverna with a huge welcome – I don’t know how they remember everyone but the food there is still excellent and then off to Roof Top Bar for a drink. 

Monday, Tony persuaded me to walk to Kastro.  Hadn’t done this before and I am glad I did.  After the walk to the top, came down to a table under a tree by the church, where bottles of ouzo and nibbles of greek delight had been laid out for everyone to enjoy with a little honesty box placed on the table.  It was so enjoyable sitting and mixing with different people and nationalities and enjoying a glass of ouzo and water from the spring.  Walked down to Kastro beach and watched the boats coming in and the fittest of the daytrippers hurtling up to the top of Kastro and even funnier, tearing down again when they thought they were going to miss the boat !

That evening went to the Boomerangers dinner from the Skiathosinfo website which had been arranged by Guy Pettigrew at Varellis’ taverna in Troulos.  Always sceptical about evenings like this, it was a success and great to put faces to names. Yiorgos and Rosemany were great hosts and the food was excellent.  Wish I was returning for the September event.  Gave a good mention of ClearSpray.

Tuesday visited Kanaptisa beach and then off to Dionissos taverna that evening where we met Sue (Mo&balconies) again who works there.  Spent several enjoyable evenings there and the food was excellent.  Huge plates, complimentary ouzo, nibbles and fruit and still reasonably priced.  Sue is a great ‘front of house’ and really knows how to get the punters in.  As we left, huge winds were whipping up along the streets.  We had this last year when it culminated in Tony, a bit worse for wear after many drinks in a bar, having to jump into the hotel swimming pool to retrieve all our towels from the balcony – swiftly sobered him up.  With that thought in mind, albeit this year he would have been jumping off the cliffs into the sea, he raced back to the hotel to just save my bikini flying off across to the Bourtzi !  What a night. The noise from the wind was crazy and so on Wednesday knowing that the seas on the north side of the island would be amazing, drove over past Agistros which had been flattened.  No tops on the brolleys and the taverna roof half gone.  The taverna owner was still recovering several days later.  Went on past Krifi Amos where the sea had taken away the beach.  Nowhere to sit if you wanted and so we carried onto Kechria where we sat under a tree on the grass and took some great pictures.  It was quite sheltered here but the sea was raging. 

Thursday sought out Ag Elini which we had never visited before.  Been to nearby Banana and Koukanaries but we find it just far too noisy and clubby there now.  Many years ago Banana was my favourite when you could relax on big banana, take your clothes off and feel unbothered.  Not anymore – mind you, far too old for that now – wouldn’t dare!  Ag Elini is sheltered and as it was still quite windy it was a good bay for a swim and some of the boats were coming in rather than going around the island.  We noticed they then went over to the Pelion which I have never seen before.  We never did discover how that trip gets organised.  Would have liked to have done that.  Returned to Asprolithos that evening with friends of ours who had spent two weeks on Skopelos and decided to have the night before their flight in Skiathos.  Good thinking considering the high winds for the ferry crossing.  They had been to see Mamma Mia and so that was next on our list.

Friday dropped our friends off at the airport and went to Portobello for one of their full English breakfasts. Good value and thought I could eat it all but the heat beat me! Visited Kolios Bay where we could see that the shrubs and trees were slowly recovering from last years fire. In the evening had an early meal at Taverna Alexandros before going to see Mamma Mia. What an atmosphere, people dancing and singing in the aisles.  Headed off again to Admiral Benbow where we met Chris and Jan who used to run a bar on the island and now, although back in the UK, have a pretty holiday house in the town.  Their daughter had a session on the drums that evening in Chocolate Bar so I went off to see her perform. She was excellent and so were the band who played mostly reggae.  What a night.  It was 4am when I eventually staggered home and spent all Saturday paying for it, lying on Kechria under a tree dying!  Back to Dionissos taverna that evening and actually had an early night, wonder why.  Honestly, just can’t take it anymore. 

Sunday visited Mandraki for the first time. I do hope I have the right Mandraki here as there is also Mandraki Elias which on the map is called Ghournes.  I always get confused.  In the evening we made the effort to get out early in the hope of a table at Maria’s Pizza.  Every time we had passed during the week, it was packed with queues down the street. We had seen the place full at 7am, far too early for me, so I guessed if we got there just before 8 we might catch the people leaving.  We were in luck and the food was excellent.  The only trouble is that you do feel obliged not to linger at the table enjoying a drink as there are so many people queuing you feel a bit guilty.  

Monday spent the whole day walking and exploring Skiathos Town.  Always enjoy this, looking for new places to perhaps stay and ultimately somewhere to buy or rent for the summer in a couple of years time.  Always on our mind and having met a couple and seen their home last year and then Chris and Jan this year with their home, we never stop looking and thinking about it.  Had lunch at La Scuna on club row which was very good and fed bread to the masses of fish along there. 

Tuesday went down to see Nikotsara bay – quite a drive and somewhere to be seen but it was too hot to stay with no beds or brollies but great for snorkelling.  So off  back to Kechria.  Walked through the woods this time and found the house, still standing but even more dilapidated and the Sale board still there.  You’d have to be brave to take that one on.

Wednesday went over to Asselinos and saw the new places being built.  It could get quite big down there over time.  We stayed in Asselinos at Villa Angela 4 years ago and it is a beautiful valley but we now prefer to stay in the town and use a jeep to get out to the beaches each day and then at night we can park up, and drink without worrying.

Our last day Thursday was spent on Kechria again (boring aren’t we) saying goodbyes and then went to Dionissos again.  Off to Admiral Benbow, lots of people to say goodbye too, many of whom now live on the island or spend the summer there and how I admire their lifestyle and bravery for taking that step. 

Friday off to the airport, very strict check-in (hand luggage too) and the couple in front of us were overweight and got charged €10 for each 1kg over.  This is a huge problem this year.  Onto First Choice aircraft and wonderful to be told it was a non-stop flight.  Bliss.  However, I would rather they had announced that they couldn’t take off for a further week and left me stranded on this most beautiful island.

Had a very relaxing, mainly beach holiday this year.  Always trying to keep something new to do next time but it gets harder.  We didn’t get over to Tsourgria this year since the taverna has been built.  Skopelos, even though we’ve done it before, would be nice to visit again but a day would be enough – it doesn’t compare to Skiathos even though the town is kept immaculate.  Would love to do that trip over to the Pelion, that the boats were doing on the stormy day.